Wheeler Dealer (USA Day 125)

Many of our new friends seem genuinely shocked with the kinds of things we produce from our bags.

“A whole bottle of dressing? How do you manage all that weight?”

“A loaf of bread? What’re you doing with that?”

“Do you have a…laptop?”

Listen. Oy, just listen. You can tour with a light bike, a credit card and a single pant. Enjoy that freedom. We’ve chosen to bring various bathroom facilities with us, and we’re happy about it. We also currently have a foam roller, two board games, a microphone set and two different types of pear. The truth is, by about the second week you’ve become so acclimatised with the weight of your bike that you barely notice. Bring what you want on a bike tour, as long as it fits on the bike.

A mile past our campsite, we stopped in a tiny town for coffee, served by a man who quite clearly hated the concept of us. We chose to sit outside, and watched a large, crumb-covered chap climb out of his SUV while texting.

An old guy in a Hawaiian shirt emerged silently from a store behind us and said, “You know how dangerous it is to use your cell phone while driving?”

The other chap scoffed. “Ah, hell. I’ll change a diaper, roll a joint and drive backwards while on my phone.” He made to push past his accuser.

“So how many people have you put in bodybags?”

“Pick a different fight, dude,” said the crumb-covered one, angry now. “Life’s too short.”

They parted ways, the crummier of the two heading in for coffee. When he returned, he looked at the phones clipped onto our handlebars and asked, “Do you talk on those while you’re riding?”

“No,” we responded.

“I’m super careful, ya know. There was literally only one time.”

“Huh?”

“Oh, once I was riding in San Francisco and I’d just closed this deal. Three hundred pounds of pot. I looked down at my phone, and then boom, I hit someone. Like once.”

We couldn’t work out if this was an admission of guilt, justification for his point of view or just pushing for a reaction. Whatever the case, the Hawaiian shirt guy had clearly won this round. Our responses were saved when a friend appeared whose truck had apparently just been released from the impound. They launched into a conversation about cannabis farming equipment and we were fast forgotten.

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Aside from being extra-aware of bad drivers, the big challenge today was to spend as long as we could not cycling on the 101. This was made possible by various side roads and diversions and one strange hike down a thorny verge which left our entire bodies and brains covered in those sticky burrs that will remain attached ‘til death do us part.

Once again, the ankle failed to rear its ugly foot. We arrived at Standish-Hickey campground in time for a burger from the local café and a catch-up with the gang. It’s freezing cold, and the campground’s empty apart from the bikers. This route has been made up like a tourist artery, but right now there’s only a dribble of iron-poor cells. Quite an odd experience.

Today: 42 Miles

Total: 5415 Miles